Day-by-day accounts of Kesher L'Yisrael II Mission -- compiled by Jonathan Slutzman

Day 1: Tuesday, June 13, 2006

Tuesday evening signaled the formal start of Kesher L'Yisrael II, Project Reconnect's second mission to Israel. After a brief stop at the tayelet, or promenade, to enjoy the view looking north to the Old City of Jerusalem, we dined at a restaurant just below the tayelet with an equally impressive view.

Our two speakers during dinner were Dr. David Breakstone, Head of the Department for Zionist Activities of the World Zionist Organization, and Colonel (Ret.) Miriam Eisin of the Israel Defense Forces. Dr. Breakstone shared a brief perspective of Theodor Herzl that is little discussed -- Herzl as futurist. A portable exhibit on display showed Herzl's view that Zionism is not just about the establishment of a Jewish State, but it is also about future goals -- i.e., what would the character and life of that State be.

Col. Eisin shared her observations based upon a career in military intelligence and studying the politics of the region, centered around the current State of Israel. Israel has a tremendously difficulty balancing act between being a Western democracy on one hand, being a Jewish State on the other hand, and establishing borders. Language has changed and the choice of words is very important. Terms such as "disengagement," "separation," and "convergence" are being used today instead of "negotiation" or "agreement." Ultimately, though, Israel will need to form bilateral bridges between the secular and the religious, with North America, and with other poles.

After this interesting program on our first night, our travel-weary group returned to the hotel to rest up for the next day's extensive schedule.

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Day 2: Wednesday, June 14, 2006

Day two, the first full day of our mission, began with an early Shacharit service followed by a bountiful Israeli breakfast at our hotel. We then had the pleasure of hearing from Zeev Bielski, Chairman of the Executive of the Jewish Agency for Israel and the World Zionist Organization. With the World Zionist Congress beginning the following week, we were especially appreciative that he took time out of his busy schedule to be with us. He related the history of how he came to be in his current position -- beginning as a shaliach to South Africa (where he met his wife and brought her back to Israel) to serving as mayor of Ra'anana for seventeen years. Today the Jewish Agency is working the areas of aliyah, Jewish education, and bridging gaps in Israeli society. Chairman Bielski made the important point that the Jewish Agency is the only place in Israel where all streams of Judaism sit together at the same table.

We switched from the greater Zionist perspective to a more local vision when we then visited Jerusalem's City Hall. We viewed an impressively large and detailed model of the City of Jerusalem, representing 12% of the land area, which is used as both a visual aid and as a planning tool for local building initiatives. The model is updated constantly and includes approved building projects that are proposed for the future. The balcony on the top of City Hall afforded us a breathtaking panoramic view of Jerusalem and beyond.

Uri Lupolianski is the first Haredi Jew to be elected mayor of Jerusalem. He was very gracious in his welcome and reminded us of the great variety of backgrounds and languages that are represented in Jerusalem. Paraphrasing his words, he said that everyone can dance in Jerusalem while working not to step on each other's feet. This will be even more necessary as the population grows from the current figure of 800,000 to a projected one million people by the year 2020.

Nefesh B'Nefesh is one organization successfully helping to increase the population of Israel through aliyah. Rabbi Joshua Fass, Founder and Executive Director of Nefesh B'Nefesh, spoke to us over lunch at his headquarters and told us that they have brought over 7,000 olim to Israel during the less than six years of their existence. They expect to celebrate their 10,000th oleh this summer. A highlight of our visit was an opportunity to meet and hear from Conservative Jews who made aliyah within the last few years and were assisted by Nefesh B'Nefesh.

Nefesh B'Nefesh works with prospective olim long before their arrival in Israel to prepare them for job placement and for integration into Israeli society. They continue to provide a network of services to families and singles for as long as is needed after arrival in Israel. The shift in the character of aliyah from an older model of fleeing one's homeland to come to Israel -- to today's more common model of making aliyah by choice -- serves to reinforce the importance of the support services provided by Nefesh B'Nefesh.

Our group divided into two tracks for the afternoon. One group headed west to Tel Aviv to tour the Palmach Museum. The other group travelled to the Ein Gedi Spa at the Dead Sea and to Masada. Regretfully, we have no photos of the individuals who covered their bodies in the famous mud from that area.

The evening program at the beautiful Begin Center provided a unique opportunity to hear multiple perspectives on the Israeli-Palestinian conflict. We were joined by a group of 40 students who were participating in a KOACH Birthright trip. There were three panelists, each presenting a personal viewpoint, followed by an extensive Q&A.

David Bedein, a former USYer, is President of the Center for Near East Policy Research and the founder of the Israel Resource News Agency. He spoke about his organization's work in translating speeches and educational materials from Arabic, thereby exposing disinformation campaigns by Palestinian leaders. He also outlined two issues of great concern to him within the Palestinian community: (1) encouragement by UNRWA (the UN agency that runs Palestinian Arab refugee camps) of the refugee status of Palestinians in deplorable conditions, and (2) the deterioration of the rights of non-Muslims in the Palestinian Authority.

Dr. Salam Fayyad, former Finance Minister of the Palestinian National Authority and current leader of the "Third Way" political party, expressed his support of a two-state solution with secure and recognized borders. He supported the strengthening of Palestinian institutions that would serve both the Palestinian people and their neighbors, but the current state of lawlessness within the PA makes the implementation of these reforms unlikely.

Eve Harrow, a resident of Efrat and dedicated spokesperson for the right of Jews to live in Judea, Samaria, and Gaza, spoke passionately about the lack of preparedness of the Palestinians to govern themselves in an independent state. She favored a single state solution, with Arabs and Jews co-existing in a Jewish state without fears of terrorism.

Though we had anticipated that there would be sparks flying due to the diversity of the panel, the discussion was extremely respectful and provided us a brief and valuable glimpse into the extremely complicated political conflict that we read about daily.

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Day 3: Thursday, June 15, 2006

Thursday began with a meaningful Shacharit service in a beautiful, yet troubling place. We gathered at the synagogue at Yad Vashem, Israel's Memorial to the Holocaust Martyrs and Heroes, to pray as Jews -- something so many others were denied the ability to do. After davening as a kehillah, we took a tour of the new museum, which is striking in its presentation of the Shoah from the perspective of individuals. Although the Holocaust is typically presented through statistics -- 6,000,000 Jews killed -- the museum portrays the evil as 6,000,000 individual acts of murder. Before enjoying lunch at the cafeteria, everyone had the opportunity to see other parts of Har HaZikaron, particularly the overwhelmingly moving Children's Memorial.

From Yad Vashem, the group divided into two touring groups: one heading to the Israel Museum and Museum on the Seam and the other one visiting the Davidson Center and Western Wall Tunnels in the Old City. At the Davidson Center and Jerusalem Archaeological Park, we were treated to a virtual tour of Jerusalem during the Second Temple era as well as a real-life walk down the road next to the Western Wall. At the Western Wall tunnels we were able to walk along the wall all the way to the northwestern corner of the Temple Mount, passing by the closest point to the Holy of Holies.

While some of us were connecting with 2,000 years of Old City history, the rest of the group was seeing more of a mixture of things. The Israel Museum is the new site of the impressive Second Temple model of the walled city of Jerusalem that used to be on display at the Holyland Hotel. It depicts the Old City during the Second Temple era. In addition, the Israel Museum boasts a spectacular collection of art and artifacts, including the Dead Sea Scrolls of Qumran. The Museum on the Seam, located in a building that stands on the former border between Israel and Jordan (the Green Line or 1948 armistice line), displays contemporary art that attempts to depict different aspects of socio-political reality. In viewing these multi-media pieces, visitors learn about how the tensions within and between groups affects individuals.

From the past to the present, Thursday night brought us to the highlight of our trip to Israel -- a private concert by David Broza. Over 600 guests were invited, including delegates to the World Zionist Congress representing Masorti congregations from all over the world, soldiers of the Israel Defense Forces, a Latin American youth group, members of Masorti congregations in Israel, and many other special guests. The entertainment began with an upbeat performance by an impressive drumming group followed by a boys' choir. Although both of these groups were great, the climax of the evening was David Broza himself, on stage with his guitar. Singing in both Spanish and Hebrew, he kept the crowd captivated for an hour. With people dancing down front and in the rear of the hall, soldiers waving lighters, audience members clapping and singing, it was clear that David Broza was a hit. After finishing Mitachat La'Shamayim, David walked off the stage, only to be called back out to sing Yihiyeh Tov as an encore to an adoring crowd.

We concluded the concert with a moving rendition of Hatikvah, led by the boys' choir. After starting our day in a place that documents what was perhaps the darkest time in the history of the Jewish people, this concert was both uplifting and a great way to experience modern Israel.

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Day 4: Friday, June 16, 2006

Friday morning began with a visit to United Synagogue's Fuchsberg Jerusalem Center. Rabbi Jim Lebeau, Director of the Fuchsberg Center, led a tour of the campus. This home for Conservative Judaism in Israel has ample space for 70 students at the Conservative Yeshiva, a 200-bed guest house with conference and dining facilities for multiple groups, as well as permanent office space. The recently expanded complex is very impressive and even has some room for expansion as we hope our presence in Israel continues to grow.

At the end of our tour, the group heard a very brief introduction by the Ziv Tzedakah Fund about the Amuta (i.e., non-profit organization ) for Emotional Support of Girlfriends (Fiancees) of Fallen Soldiers of the Israel Defense Forces. This organization fills a very important need within Israel. When a soldier is lost, the IDF provides support to his/her immediate relatives -- parents, siblings, spouses, children -- but not to other loved ones. Following such a loss in her family (her daughter's fiancee was killed in Lebanon), Phyllis Heimowitz started this organization to provide help to those the IDF didn't reach out to. Today, the IDF now recognizes girlfriends, boyfriends, and fiancees of their fallen soldiers, directing them to the Amuta for support. The government also now provides financial support to the Amuta, helping them to continue and to expand their good work. In addition to hearing Phyllis's personal story, a few young women who had lost their loved ones told us their own stories. All of these stories were moving, troubling, at times terrifying, but important to hear firsthand. Perhaps the most important lesson to reflect on as we were about to begin preparing for Shabbat is that the casualties of war go beyond those killed on the battlefield.

We reconvened in late afternoon for a walking tour of the Old City with Rabbi Binny Freedman, USY alum and son of Rabbi Paul and Nina Freedman. Binny led us through the streets of the Armenian and Jewish Quarters, pointing out interesting sights and relaying terrific stories all along the way. The panoramic view of the City and beyond from the roof of the 900 year old building that houses Binny's office at Isralight was sensational. After lighting Shabbat candles, we walked to the kotel to daven Mincha, Kabbalat Shabbat, and Ma'ariv at either the Western Wall or at the Southern Wall (where egalitarian services are permitted).

We returned to the hotel for a sumptuous Shabbat dinner with a number of invited guests, including hayelim bodedim (known as lonely soldiers) and olim located through Project Reconnect. Binny Freedman agreed to tell us a few more stories and to lead some singing, but the highlight was having Nina Freedman teach everyone to sing Menucha v'Simcha in her own special way. And of course we all promised to teach it and to sing it every Shabbat.

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Day 5: Saturday, June 17, 2006

Mission participants were free to choose to visit a congregation of their choice for Shabbat morning services. After services, we all rendezvoused in the Kingsley Dining Room in the Tichnor Residence Hall and Learning Center of the Fuchsberg Jerusalem Center for a festive luncheon meal.

Some members of the group accompanied Rabbi Binny Freedman on a walk through parts of West Jerusalem, particularly the neighborhoods near the Fuchsberg Center, David Citadel Hotel, and Yemin Moshe. Our fabulous tour guide and educator, Binny, pointed out an interesting Muslim cemetery from the Crusader era which includes the grave of Saladin's military chief and King Herod's tomb.

Following a brief but necessary Shabbos shluf, we assembled in the Beit Midrash of the Conservative Yeshiva to daven Mincha and to experience a taste of hevruta study and dialogue with Rabbi David Goldfarb, Director of the Conservative Yeshiva. We learned about the halachic basis of self defense, with sources from biblical text, the Gemara, Rashi, and others. Everyone - especially the attorneys in the group - participated in this most interesting discussion.

We returned to the Kingsley Dining Room to enjoy the third meal of Shabbat, Seudat Shlishit. Rabbi Goldfarb delivered a brief drash on the number of books in the chumash (the answer may be seven!). We then concluded our only Shabbat in Israel by davening the Ma'ariv serrvice in the Beit Midrash and then moved outside to the amphitheater for a beautiful Havdalah service. We bid farewell to Shabbat and dispersed to take advantage of a free evening to enjoy Jerusalem.

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Final Day: Sunday, June 18, 2006

Arrangements had been made for our group to have a guided tour of the modern building housing the Supreme Court of Israel. The architectural features of the building were a deliberate attempt to convey important and ideal aspects of how the court would function within Israeli society. The building evokes a feeling of both interior and exterior spaces throughout, with large windows admitting natural light. In addition, the contrast of a rough-hewn stone wall - that could just as easily be an outside wall - juxtaposed with a modern finished flat interior finish on the opposite wall, continues this repeating theme. The clever use of straight lines and circular shapes throughout is meant to signify the balancing of law and justice. We had an opportunity to tour one of the five courtrooms and to see the different architectural influences within the land of Israel -- Roman, Islamic, and Jewish -- all incorporated into one space.

We also had the rare privilege to meet privately with Justice Aharon Barak, the President of the Supreme Court. Justice Barak entertained a number of questions, only declining to comment on issues (such as the debate over charging fees for Robinson's Arch) that were currently under consideration by the Court. Justice Barak is an internationally renowned jurist who frequently teaches at the Yale University Law School and is both extremely influential, and at times controversial, as a Chief Justice. A reporter accompanied us and several of Justice Barak's comments became a front page story in the next day's edition of The Jerusalem Post.

Our group next traveled to Mount Herzl, site of perhaps the most significant military cemetery in the country, to visit the Herzl Center. This inter-active museum portrays the life and accomplishments of Theodor Herzl through artifacts, movies, and life-like displays. From there, some of us continued back to the government complex to visit the Knesset, Israel's parliament, housed in a beautifully appointed building.

The evening program, our final event as a complete group, was a delightful dinner in the gardens of the historic Anna Ticho House. Ticho House was one of the first houses in Jerusalem built outside the old city walls. It was built in the second half of the ninteenth century by an Arab dignitary. Our guest speaker was supposed to be U.S. Ambassador Richard Jones, but unfortunately he had to cancel his commitment due to a diplomatic trip to Turkey. Dr. Helena Kane Finn, Counselor for Public Affairs at the U.S. Embassy in Tel Aviv, substituted for the Ambassador. She spoke of the importance of public diplomacy and about some of the programs and initiatives being done at the Department of State to improve foreigners' opinions and beliefs of the U.S.

A few of our participants flew back to the States on Sunday night, a dozen of us got up early Monday morning to travel north on a planned extension to our mission (including stops in Caesarea, a Druze village, Haifa, Tiberias, the Golan Heights, and Safed), while the rest of us stayed in Jerusalem to either participate in the meetings of the World Zionist Congress or to continue exploring the wonders of Israel.